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A SLIGHTLY OVERCOMPLICATED LOVE SONG: TO DEVILED EGGS

In my experience, there’s the things that are really, really good. And then there are the things that everybody likes. They aren’t the same things. The things that are really, really good tend to threaten or question the general way of things, and being as people like things the way they are, they tend not to like the ...

THE UNDISPUTED KING OF TEXAS BEEF

I learned to cook brisket from a man with one thumb. Actually it was half a thumb. Three quarters if you count the bony protuberance at the end of it. The other one was intact, but his brisket thumb had been pulled off by a mule. Or bitten off in a bar fight . Or sacrificed in disgrace after a brief but disappointing ...